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But in fact, the EU neither dominates
nor defines Brussels, merely forming one layer of a city that has become,
in postwar years at least, a thriving, cosmopolitan metropolis.
It's a vibrant and fascinating place, with architecture
and museums to rank among the best of Europe's capitals, not to mention
a superb restaurant scene and an energetic nightlife. Moreover, most of
the key attractions are crowded into a centre that is small enough to be
absorbed over a few days, its boundaries largely defined by a ring of boulevards
known
as the "petit ring".
The layout of this city centre embodies historic
class divisions. For centuries, the ruling class has lived in the Upper
Town, an area of wide boulevards and grand mansions which looks down on
the maze of tangled streets that characterize the Lower Town, traditionally
home to shopkeepers and workers. This fundamental class divide has in recent
decades
been further complicated by discord between Belgium's
two main linguistic groups, the Walloons (the French-speakers) and the
Flemish (basically Dutch-speakers). As a cumbersome compromise, the city
is Belgium's only officially bilingual region and by law all road signs,
street names and virtually all published information must be in both languages,
even though French-speakers make up nearly eighty percent of Brussels'
population. As if this was not complex enough, since the 1960s the city
has become much more ethnically diverse, with communities of immigrants
from North Africa, Turkey, the Mediterranean and Belgium's former colonies
as well as European administrators, diplomats and business people, now
comprising a quarter of the population.
Each of these communities leads a very separate, distinct
existence and this is reflected in the number and variety of affordable
ethnic restaurants. But, even without these, Brussels would still be a
wonderful place to eat : its gastronomic reputation rivals that of Paris
and London, and though restaurants are rarely inexpensive, there is great-value
food to be had
in many of the bars . The bars themselves can be sumptuous,
basic, traditional or very fashionable - and one of the city's real pleasures.
Another pleasure is shopping : Belgian chocolates and lace are de rigueur,
but it's also hard to resist the charms of the city's designer clothes
shops and antique markets, not to mention the numerous specialist shops
devoted to anything and everything from comic books to costume jewellery.
Many of the city's best bars and restaurants are dotted
round the city centre, within the petit ring, and this is where you'll
find the key sights. The Lower Town centres on the Grand-Place, one of
Europe's most magnificent squares, boasting a superb ensemble of Baroque
guildhouses and an imposing Gothic town hall, while the Upper Town weighs
in with a splendid cathedral and a fine art museum
of international standing, the Musées Royaux des Beaux Arts. Few
visitors stray beyond the petit ring, but there are delights
here too, principally in St Gilles and Ixelles , two
communes (or boroughs) just to the south of the centre, whose streets are
studded with fanciful Art Nouveau residences,
including the old home and studio of Victor Horta, the
style's prime exponent.
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