Un poco sobre España
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If you are
coming to Spain for the first time, be warned: this is a country that fast
becomes an addiction. You might intend to come just for a beach
holiday, or a tour of the major cities, but before you know it you'll find
yourself hooked by something quite different - by the celebration of some
local fiesta, perhaps, or the amazing nightlife in Madrid, by the Moorish
monuments of Andalucia, by Basque cooking, or the wild landscapes and birds
of prey of Estremadura. And by then, of course, you will have noticed that
there is not just one Spain but many. Indeed, Spaniards often speak of
Las Españas (the Spains) and they even talk of the capital in the
plural - Los Madriles , the Madrids.
This regionalism is an obsession
and perhaps the most significant change to the country over recent decades
has been the creation of seventeen autonomías - autonomous regions
- with their own governments, budgets and cultural ministries. The old
days of a unified nation, governed with a firm hand from Madrid,
seem to have gone forever, as the separate kingdoms which made up the original
Spanish state reassert themselves. And the differences are evident wherever
you look: in language, culture and artistic traditions, in landscapes and
cityscapes, and attitudes and politics.
The cities - above all - are compellingly
individual. Barcelona, for many, has the edge: for Gaudí's splendid
modernista architecture, the lively promenade of Las Ramblas, designer
clubs par excellence , and, not least, for Barça - the city's football
team. But Madrid, although not as pretty, claims as many devotees. The
city and its people, immortalized in the movies of Pedro Almodóvar,
have a vibrancy and style that is revealed in a thousand bars and summer
terrazas. Not to mention three of the world's finest art museums. Then
there's Sevilla, home of flamenco and all the clichés of southern
Spain; Valencia, the vibrant Levantine city with an arts scene and nightlife
to equal any European rival; and Bilbao, a new entry on Spain's cultural
circuit, due to Frank Gehry's astonishing Guggenheim museum.
Monuments range just as widely from
one region to another, dependent on their history of control and occupation
by Romans and Moors, their role in the "golden age" of Imperial Renaissance
Spain, or their twentieth-century fortunes. Touring Castile and León,
you confront the classic Spanish images of vast cathedrals and reconsquista
castles - literally hundreds of the latter; in the northern mountains of
Asturias and the Pyrenees, tiny, almost organic Romanesque churches dot
the hillsides and villages; Andalucía has the great mosques and
Moorish palaces of Granada, Sevilla and Córdoba;
Castile has the superbly preserved medieval capital, Toledo, and the gorgeous
Renaissance university city of Salamanca; while the harsh landscape of
Estremadura cradles the ornate conquistador towns built with riches from
the "New World".
Not that Spain is predominantly
about buildings. For most visitors, the landscape holds just as much fascination
- and variety. The evergreen estuaries of Galicia could hardly be more
different from the high, arid plains of Castile, or the gulch-like desert
landscapes of Almería. Agriculture makes its mark in the patterened
hillsides of the wine- and olive-growing regions and the rice fields of
the Levante. Spain is also one of the most mountainous countries in Europe,
and there is superb walking and wildlife in a dozen or more sierras - above
all in the Picos de Europa and Pyrenees. Spain's unique fauna boast protected
species like brown bears, the Spanish lynx and Mediterranean monk seals
as well as more common wild boar, white storks and birds of prey.
One of Spain's greatest draws is
undeniably its beaches although with infinitely more variety than you would
be led to believe from the sun-and-sand holiday brochures. Long tracts
of coastline - along the Costa del Sol, in particular - have been developed
into concrete hotel and villa complexes but delightful pockets remain even
on the big tourist costas. On the Costa Brava, the string of coves between
Palamos and Begur are often overlooked, while in the south there are superb
windsurfing waters around Tarifa and some decidedly low-key resorts along
the Costa de la Luz. In the north, the cooler Atlantic coastline boasts
the surfing sands of Cantabria and the unspoilt coves of Galicia's estuaries.
Offshore, the Balearic islands have some superb sands and, if you're up
for it, Ibiza also offers one of the most hedonistic backdrops to beachlife
in the Mediterranean.
Wherever you are in Spain, you
can't help but notice the Spaniards' infectious enthusiasm for life. In
the cities there is always
something happening - in bars and
clubs, on the streets, and especially at fiesta times. Even in out of the
way places there's
a surprising range of nightlife
and entertainment, not to mention the daily pleasures of a round of tapas,
moving from bar
to bar, having a beer, a glass of
wine or a fino (dry sherry) and a bite of the house speciality. The identity
and appeal of each of
the regions is explored in the introductions,
where you'll find a rundown on their highlights
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